Thursday, June 30, 2011

Photo series #2: A short, solo walkabout

Audrey was taking a nap so I went on a solo walk around Rach Gia. I had fun taking pictures of the people I "met" (ie smiled, said "Hi", and asked in very poor Vietnamese: "Can I take your picture?"). The kids were especially excited to see me. Apparently, they can spot a 6'1'' Caucasian male from very far away. Enjoy.

-Scott

Brown ocean during the rainy season
Excited to say "Hello!"
Friendly man chopping up some bushes
Poverty
Stalled construction project
Workshop. No idea what he was working on, but it looked cool.
"Hello!"
Wherever there is room
Drying herbs
Gecko!
Came back to a refreshed Audrey
Hustle and bustle at night
Kids playing on our street after dinner

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Motorcycle Diaries

Sunday, June 26, 2011
10:27 AM (Vietnam Time)

Definitely a lazy Sunday. Scott and I wake up at 9:30 am, which is late for us here. Last night we ventured out into the city and walked to dinner, where we had com ga roti (fried chicken and rice) and muc xao (fried squid). We headed back to the fancy Hai Au restaurant to order smoothies and to sit on the water and watch the sky change color from pinks to blues. It wasn’t completely peaceful because there was a wedding reception taking place inside the restaurant with very loud Vietnamese karoake. The people inside are definitely having a good time, even if their singing may not be as good as the time they are having.

I am slowly starting to feel more relaxed. The hospital is right across the river from the restaurant, and as I look over and see the ambulance rush out of the gates, it reminds me of any hospital back home. This comforts me somehow. And, somehow, in the fading light, the hospital doesn’t look as daunting.
A thought crossed my mind yesterday. I probably sound so funny to the locals here. I use all the wrong pronouns and leave out important conjunctions like “and”, “or”, and “but.” There is also a million different ways to address someone here or to address yourself. It depends on the age of the person you are speaking to, and I constantly mix them up, even within the same sentence. This is probably what I sound like, “Open today? Want to drink smoothie. Have soursop smoothie? From America. Figure money.”


3 PM (Vietnam Time)


Audrey's head
Scott and I took our first ride on a motorbike today, just the two of us. We rented it from the hotel owner for $6/day. We each took a test run around the neighborhood, and we rode off into the traffic of the city. Scott had rode one before, so the ride was smooth, and he was comfortable. We just rode with no destination in mind, but we wanted to go along the coast. We chose a street that just went for miles and took in the sights and smells of Rach Gia. I felt like we were in a scene from the Motorcyle Diaries. Two people trying to “find” themselves in Vietnam, both on one motorbike, zipping past the trees. The coast was browned with mud. I drove for awhile in a more empty stretch of street, slightly more cautiously and less smoothly than Scott. Sometimes I try to hold my emotions and joys in, trying not to get too excited. I think it’s a way of making myself feel stable. I could feel the enthusiasm bubbling up inside me as we rode.

We just drove and drove, the wheels eating up the miles. All the while, the sun was beating down on us, and even through the breeze created by the speed of the motorbike, the heat was almost too much to bear. We circled back into the city, in search of a banh xeo restaurant that Dr. Man recommended. We could not find it, so we headed back to the hotel. Scott circled us around the neighboorhood and showed me where he walked yesterday. Along the river, past huts, houses, and bikers slowly lugging their living, we gently explored Rach Gia. Mobility is liberating. 

Excited to be on a scooter #1
Excited to be on a scooter #2


Cruisin'

7:05 PM (Vietnam Time)
Tonight for dinner, Scott and I went to a new restaurant, Banh Xeo Thanh Nhi, recommended by Dr. Man. Having the motorbike for the day, we headed off without having to call a taxi. The restaurant was large with a courtyard of bamboo trees shooting through the center. It felt like we were eating in a jungle. They only had 4 items on the menu, banh xeo, banh khot, goi cuon bi cha, and something else that looked crunchy and delicious. We ordered 3 of them. They brought out a beautiful basket overflowing with rau thom, most of which I had never seen before. There were leaves of all shapes and sizes, of all textures and flavors. We wrapped our banh xeo and banh khot in the leaves and folded in herbs like basil and mint among others. What we got was an explosion of flavors and aromas. If I haven’t said it already, I’ll say it now—Vietnamese food is nothing without the rau thom. Satisfied and full, we headed off to chase the sunset. 

-Audrey
See the rest of Scott's full-size photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbauer810/sets/72157627011360334/with/5855972348/

...and we caught it.

Monday, June 27, 2011

Maybe tomorrow

Saturday, June 25, 2011
7:45 am (Vietnam Time)

I have been getting up around 7 am and going to bed around 9 pm these days. Scott says that I am turning into an adult. Truth is, I just probably haven’t recovered from the jet lag yet. 

hu tieu for breakfast
Yesterday was a slow day. Scott and I wake up and go downstairs to have breakfast at the hotel. We order hu tieu again. 5 minutes later, a man on a motorbike holding 2 bowls of hu tieu on a rack covered in plastic, rides up to our hotel and serves us the soup. It is from a restaurant around the corner. We go back upstairs and have to do some work. Scott makes some edits to his proposal, while I develop the schedule for the next 5 weeks. We blog and edit pictures. 

We don’t really know where the day has gone, but before we know it, it is 3 pm, and we are hungry again. We walk to Hai Au Restaurant that Dr. Man took us to on our first day. The menus they give us are different, and the food is way more expensive. We decide to just order drinks; one sinh to mang cau (soursop smoothie) and one rau ma (pennywort juice). The rau ma is not how I remember it in the States. It’s more bitter and a darker green. We just drink the sinh to mang cau. After drinks, we decide to go back to the restaurant we ate at the day before, Lau Mam Bac Lieu. Our stomachs are feeling weak today, so we want to stay on the safe side.



We walk all the way there, about a mile, and take pictures on the way. Once there, the waiters recognize us, and I order lau chua again, but this time with a different fish that is meatier and less bony. The fish we get is called ca bop, and we also get it simmered in a clay pot. Food is delicious as always. The servers are helpful. Eating hot soup on a hot day. I guess that’s how they do it in Vietnam.
 
rau for sale (credit: Audrey)
11:15 am (Vietnam Time)

Rach Gia is a small coastal town
My family and friends at home know that I love to dress up and ponder my outfits for the day. It’s so strange being here and even liberating. I wear mismatched outfits. I leave the house in a blue scrub top and a completely different shade of blue linen pants. I would definitely be stopped by the fashion police at home. I don't wear any make-up, and on occasion, when I want to feel a little girly, I will afford myself the miracle of mascara. But I just don’t care here because it doesn’t matter. I am here to relax and find my inner strentgth; my ability to adapt to situations.
 
I absolutely love the hotel we are staying at. It’s homey, and the owner takes care of us. We go downstairs in the morning, and he knows what we want to eat and drink. Our rooms are cleaned everyday in a timely manner, and we get to sleep comfortably in an air-conditioned room. It’s nice to have the comforts of home so far away. We hear children playing downstairs everyday, and Scott and I are trying to get the courage to go down and play with them. Scott brought a frisbee, and we really want to teach them how to play. There is a courtyard-type of park in the middle of the neighborhood—a perfect place to toss a frisbee.

Zoom zoom
The pace of life here in Rach Gia is much different from the zipping and zooming life we have back home where every hour of the day is occupied by something and where I feel like I am always in a rush. Scott and I had soup for breakfast again and sat outside to drink some tra (tea) while watching the people on their bikes pass us by. We got all artsy fartsy taking pictures. All the food we have been having for the past week have been really salty, so we were craving some dessert. The owner of the hotel asked one of his family members, a young woman named Tram (like my mom), to take me. I hopped on her motorbike and out we went. I bought some pastries. Scott and I then wandered over to a small coffee shop across the street, where people were quietly sitting and enjoying the peacefulness of the neighborhood. We walk in, and they are hesistant to say anything to us until I greet them in Vietnamese. The man said I am not too bad, and that I am lucky I know how to speak Vietnamese. This made me really happy, since I don’t have a lot of confidence in it, but Scott credits me with our survival here. We sit outside and have some iced tea with jackfruit juice. Their blender is broken, so we can’t have a smoothie. Maybe tomorrow. 



-Audrey

See the rest of Scott's full-size photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbauer810/sets/72157627011360334/with/5855972348/

cafe da

Scott sips tra outside our hotel

Local boy and his mother


Sunday, June 26, 2011

From start to finish

Audrey chose the fabric for her ao dai, a traditional Vietnamese dress, and then had it personally tailored. See the before and after photos below!

-Scott

Before
After
Before
After

Saturday, June 25, 2011

Big, white guy

Friday, June 24, 2011
9:41 AM (Vietnam Time)

Yesterday, Scott and I met with Dr. Man Nguyen to determine our schedule for the next few weeks and to introduce us to the staff at the Kien Giang General Hospital. He took us out to breakfast at Hai Au Restaurant. The funny thing about meals here in Vietnam is that breakfast, lunch, and dinner are basically all the same meal because you eat the same types of food. I can have hu tieu, a kind of soup, for breakfast or for dinner. That’s what I had. The broth was beautiful, but the noodles were different from what I was used to in the States. Scott’s first bowl of hu tieu in Saigon had the large, flat, and white noodles I was used to. This one had small, flat glass noodles. The broth was made aromatic with chives and lime. I don't know how anyone could eat the food here and not like it.

We sat for an hour with Dr. Man talking about the stroke study and learning some Vietnamese. He went over accent marks with us and the sounds. Though I am familiar with the Vietnamese sounds, I now understand what Scott means when he says some words sound exactly the same even though they mean different things. I had a lot of trouble pronouncing the word for “chin.” To me, it sounded like the word for "orange." I also learned some medical Vietnamese; how to say brain, cerebrum, cerebellum, brainstem, stroke, brachium, and forearm among others. The restaurant sits right along the water where the ocean flows into a river toward the city. The water is brown and and moving leaves indicate that the current is moving water inland. The sky remains cloudy during this rainy season. I am hoping to see some blue sky during this trip. I think it would make everything more vibrant. I want to see the true colors of Vietnam.

After breakfast, Dr. Man took us on a tour of the hospital and introduced us to the physicians will be working with. The hospital is in an older building with open-air hallways. It has 1,200 beds but over 1,500 patients at a time. People from all over Kien Giang Province come to this hospital, not just people from Rach Gia. The hallways were crowded with people lying on gourneys and sitting on the floor. Dr. Man showed us all the major departments: neonatology, oncology, hematology, orthopedics, trauma, neurology, and the ICU. We met Dr. Man’s wife who works in neonatology, and she speaks French, so Scott was able to communicate with her. The hospital was different from what I was used to. It was also much larger once inside than from looking at the outside. We were welcomed with smiles from the physicians we were introduced to. The nurses and doctors were dressed in white scrubs in contrast to the blues and greens of the scrubs in the United States. Scott and I could tell that Dr. Man was respected by his staff. He was greeted with smiles and enthusiasm.

After the tour, the three of us sat down to make a schedule for the next 4 – 5 weeks. The goal is to interview about 5 stroke patients a day with the Vietnamese questionnaire that Scott created. We will mainly be interviewing patients or their families in the neurology, ICU, ER, and cardiology wards. Scott and I will be working from 9 am to 4/5 pm with a lunch break from 12 pm – 1pm. After we get out, we will be analyzing the data. Dr. Man also wants me to help teach the NIH Stroke Scale in English to the nurses next week. He knows and is trained in it in Vietnamese and will be my translator. Our meeting ended with Dr. Man's giving us some good recommendations for food around here.

Dr. Man and Audrey
PVNF Volunteers
Dr. Man took us to a restaurant called Lau Mam Bac Lieu, and he ordered a feast for us: lau chua, tom, and ca kho (hotpot, shrimp, and catfish simmered in a clay pot). We had a hotpot of boiling sour broth, which was made sour by the pineapples that had been soaking in it. Just like every other Vietnamese dish, they really know how to do savory. It was savory and sour and abosultely heavenly. They brought a plate of rau thom (aromatic herbs) that would evenutally be thrown and cooked in the boiling broth. The waiter then brought out a plate of long, thin, and silver fish with the heads cut off and threw it in the pot. He then held the pot cover down tight because the fish were still alive and kicking and swirming, and he didn’t want them to fly out! It was crazy. I really wanted a picture of the uncooked fish, but they threw it in before we could do anything. Slowly, they brought out the shrimp and simmered catfish and two big plates of rice and noodles. Dr. Man left at this point to eat lunch with his family. We were really grateful to him for coming all this way with us just to order us the right food. Then, we feasted. I don’t think Scott and I said a word to each other while the steam blew in our faces and as we sweated our way through the entire meal. People were staring at us, probably thinking, “What is a big, white guy doing in Rach Gia?” and “Why do they have so much food?” Little do they know that I have the appetite of a grown man.

Frog (Credit: Audrey)
The fish was difficult to eat. I had to work too hard to avoid the bones to get to the meat. I gave up after two fish. Scott kept going and must have eaten most of it. During this process, we were throwing rau thom into the pot, letting them turn green and eating them. I don’t even know what their names were, but they smelled so good. An explosion of flavor in your mouth. We even ate flowers. They were bright pink flowers that we put in the pot, which immediately turned a bright purple. Once they changed colors, we could eat them. They were nutty. Scott and I ate everything. We definitely eat like Americans.

Scott has been really good about learning Vietnamese and has been really enthusiastic about speaking it to the locals. He’s not shy about it, and I think they really appreciate it because they always smile or laugh. I am hoping they are laughing with and not at us. Scott ordered us two bottled waters and even knew how to get the check for us. I was very impressed! He always has his camera on him, so he even knows how to ask “May I take a picture?” Let me tell you, it is not an easy task to learn Vietnamese, but Scott is definitely taking on the challenge.

-Audrey


rau
lau chua ca
Grilled shrimp (Credit: Audrey)

Thursday, June 23, 2011

7 hours

June 22, 2011
8:53 PM (Vietnam Time)

Today was a challenge for me. Scott and I wake up early to pack up, so that we can head out to Rach Gia, a small beach town south of the Mekong Delta. This is where we are going to do our stroke research project and where I will be shadowing at the hospital. We want to try to make the 10 am bus, but we have to go pick up my ao dai from the seamstress first. As always, we rush to get out of the hotel. I pick up my two dresses, and they are gorgeous. They fit me perfectly.

We then head to the bus station to catch the Mailinh Express to Rach Gia. It was about 10:30 am. We had already missed the bus we wanted, and now we had to get on the 11 am bus. The taxi driver was trying to get us to pay him 3 million dong ($150 US dollars) to drive us to Rach Gia. I had some trouble understanding and communicating with him and had thought he said 300,000 dong, which is only $15 US dollars. Luckily, I called my friend back in Saigon, and she said just take the bus. Scott and I basically got out of having to pay a bunch of money when the bust ticket is only $7.50 US dollars each. It was 10:50 am at this point, and we only had 10 minutes to buy tickets and get on the next bus. It was a bit stressful, since Scott and I had all of our bags, and we were trying to fight to get tickets while running to the bus. I have no idea how anyone can travel to Vietnam without knowing some Vietnamese. Most of the people I have run into, ,who are not in school, do not speak any English, and Vietnamese is an extremely difficult language to learn. However, the situations have forced me to speak Vietnamese and be the main communicator of Scott and me. We make it on the bus just in the nick of time; we are one of the last people to board.

Girl on bus

The bus drive is long and slow. The whole time they play ridiculous dubbed Chinese or Vietnamese movies with either people flying around and doing martial arts or with really bad graphics. I fall in and out of sleep and the little girl sitting in front of us keeps staring at us as if she is looking into Scott and my soul. Of course, Scott takes a picture of her. Even though she is staring us down, she is very cute. We make a 30 minute pit stop at some random bus station, where Scott eats his first bowl of pho in Vietnam. He says that it’s not that good (given, it was only a bus station/pit-stop).

Eating his first bowl of pho in Vietnam

Back on the bus, the scenes out of the window are visually stimulating. The landscape changes from flat fields to brown river to metal shacks interspersed with jungle. It is different from life in Saigon, where Scott and I have been for the past 2 days. There is much more poverty. People live in small metal shacks with dirt as the floor or sheets as their walls. Children are walking around bare foot and dirty. It is all thought-provoking and contrasts home. We get to a point where the bus drives onto a ferry with other buses, and we slowly crawl across a muddy brown river. Finally, we arrive in Rach Gia, almost 7 hours later. The moment we get out of the bus, 5 or 6 men in tattered blue shirts point to us, stare, and just surround us without leaving. I don’t know what they want, and they will not leave us alone. Scott says that I visibly look uncomfortable.


Baby on board

I call Dr. Man to tell him we have arrived, and he comes and picks us up, but he is on a motorbike. Now I find out what those men in tattered blue shirts want; they want to give us a ride and get paid. Dr. Man tells us to hop on, so Scott and I each hop on to two of the blue men’s bikes. Helmet on head, I experience my first ride on a motorbike. Scott’s face is completely lit up like a child’s on Halloween night. He has been wanting to do this since we got to Vietnam. The experience is bit liberating, and the bikes don’t even go that fast, so it’s not too scary. I have Scott’s camera around my neck, so I decide to snap a few pictures, and the blue men laugh (in a good way). We arrive at our hotel, Hotel Hoa Bien, and it’s cozy and clean and only $15/night.


First ride
Audrey on a motorbike

After settling in and saying goodnight to Dr. Man, Scott and I head to Hoa Bien Restaurant to feast after a long day of traveling. There is a beautiful restaurant that sits out on the water, and we order so much food—way more than we should have. We had fried squid, fish simmered in tamarind sauce, glass noodles stir-fried with seafood, goi (Vietnamese salad), and some water spinach. Everyone is staring at us because we have ordered so much food, and we keep taking pictures of everything. Scott knows a few words and phrases in Vietnamese, so he orders us two bottles of water. The waitress giggles at his efforts. Scott and I feast, and the bill comes out to $20 total, which is expensive for Vietnam. They also charged us for the napkins! Scott and I take a stroll around the block, and we notice how suburban everything is. The houses are clean and tall, children are biking around in the dark, and women are strolling around in pairs. Scott and I get back to the hotel, and I cannot wait to get in the shower. It’s only 9 pm, and I am absolutely pooped. It’s been a long day.

-Audrey

Hoa Bien Restaurant

137 Foot Massage

Tuesday, June 21, 2011

Vietnamese girl helping her younger brother

This day got started off slowly. Scott and I basically spent all afternoon in the hotel room trying to post to the blog and skype with family. It took especially long because the internet is a bit slow. Around 4 pm, Scott and I left to eat a late lunch. We had banh xeo (Vietnamese crepe filled with beansprouts and shrimp) and banh khot (fried mini rice patties). We also had sinh to mang co (soursop shake). It was all so tasty. Look for pictures under our “Food” page. 

Wow, that's a big lollipop
Yummy soursop smoothie
Scott's admiring "Snake Wine"
After lunch, we walked around a bit and took some pictures. We then headed to 137 Foot Massage, a place recommended to us by Quoc and Richard. The massage was 90 minutes long and was called “foot” massage because they massage you with their feet. Halfway through the massage, I realized this, and it wasn’t until afterwards that I found out that they were walking on my back. We also go hot stones on our back and ginger tea at the end. My whole body was sore after the massage. 

Dô! ("cheers" in Vietnamese, pronounced YO)
 We then met up with Quoc, Han, and Thu at a boba tea place, where you have to take off your shoes to get in. We all sat on mats on the floor around a short table and had milk tea. I got honeydew milk tea with boba and fruit jelly, and Scott got kiwi-flavored. We talked and played card games. We were young people living in the city experiencing what the locals do.

-Audrey
See the rest of our full-size photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sbauer810/sets/72157627011360334/with/5855972348/

Boba with friends
Scenes from a boba shop
Finally in the same picture!

Unused corner